Coffee Bay

October 15th, 2008

Karel and I headed to Coffee Bay, slightly off the beaten path but well known to backpackers. We set up camp at the Coffee Shack, a brilliant hostel which supports the community by training staff, offering scholarships, purchasing school equipment, offering Aids education, and providing opportunities for school choirs to raise money.

We decided to do what our guide book and the local Coast-to-Coast book suggested and walk to the Hole in the Wall, a rock island which should not be missed. Setting off early, with a lunch of avocado sandwiches, fresh fruit, nuts and a thermos of tea, we made our way. A few metres out of the hostel and we quickly made some new friends. One was small, fat and white with brown spots and one thin, wiry and black. Yep, you guessed it, two dogs. Karel and I were pleased with the company we acquired and eagerly started our hike.

The coastal walk was stunning. Imagine people searching for mussels in the shallow rock pools, aqua blue water, distant dolphins and the occasional whale blowing water on one side and rolling green hills with goats, sheep and the occasional hut on the other. Enjoying every moment, time passed quickly.

After about an hour, we were approached by some local young men aggressively asking about the dogs and claiming that they have bitten and killed their goat. Penalty for such a crime is full payment of what the goat costs. Karel and I shocked. Surely these dogs couldn’t, wouldn’t commit such a crime, besides we were with them the whole time. The accusation was shrugged off, as Karel explained we were with the dogs the whole time.

We continued our walk. Breathing the fresh air and admiring the gorgeous scenery once more. Passing a rocky beach, a woman came up to us. Again we heard the goat story. Thinking we must look very stupid to believe such a story, Karel patiently explained that we were walking with the dogs and watching them the whole time, he also mentioned that we were staying in the backpackers. Again the potentially hostile situation was averted.

Arriving at the Hole in the Wall, we were a bit disappointed. It was nice but highly overrated. The walk to the “attraction” was far more spectacular than the Hole in the Wall itself. We sat down and enjoyed our lunch. The dogs slept peacefully, especially the little one.

Making our return, we passed a few goats. Picture our horror when we witnessed the sweet natured black dog running full speed, diving for a goat. Karel and I speechless looked into each other’s eyes. Wordlessly Karel ran after the dog, running after the goat. We spoke, we shouted, we even pleaded for the dog to stop. Eventually he did. Suddenly man’s best friend became public enemy number one. Tried as we may, we couldn’t get rid of the dogs. There became a pattern. Dog chase goat, Karel chase dog. Luckily we made it back without any more encounters with the locals and the goat population remained in tact.