Cruising the Ilala
Nkota Bay, Malawi
April 5th, 2009
After visiting several of Lake Malawi hotspots (Cape MacClear and Kande Beach) we decided to continue to follow the lake and enjoy the islands. Once a week on Monday, there is a public ferry which departs from Nkota Bay at 8pm and makes its way towards the islands of Chizimulu and Likoma. We decided that on this particular Monday we would be on it. Upon hearing the ferry horn blow and announcing its arrival, we grabbed our backpacks and walked down towards it.
We bought our tickets and then climbed aboard the white ship up a steep wooden plank, which has seen better days. Standing on deck we had a fascinating time people watching. Every possible person you could imagine climbed on board, carrying with them every imaginable item from bananas to TVs to bread rolls to mattresses to boats to well you get the picture. There was a very Titanic feel to the whole thing.
Deciding to get something to eat we entered the ship’s restaurant. The beef stew was nice, but the cockroaches running around were not. With a TV present in the restaurant Karel was hopeful for a DVD especially as there was a Wesley Snipes Chinese illegal pirated collection, but alas it wasn’t to happen. Wandering on the top deck and using our backpacks as pillows we slept for a couple of hours.
At midnight the ferry horn blasted and we gathered our things and were amazed to see the two lifeboats being lowered down. The chaos which followed would have been entertaining if it wasn’t so confusing. Luckily the owner of the backpackers on the first island affectionately known as Chizzy was on board and told us what to do. After several boats left we headed downstairs and navigated ourselves through thick crowds and got on board. One five minute boat trip later and we arrived- paradise.
We spent three nights at Chizzy in a fantastic backpackers, Wakky Retreat, and enjoyed swimming in beautiful waters, snorkeling and wandering around the island. Wanting to visit the other island, Likoma, we took a fishing boat across the waters. Another interesting experience to stay the least. It was a short trip, only about two hours in length, but extremely long in terms of the current and sea sickness feeling factor. However once we arrived all was forgotten. Likoma was much like Chizzy, except the beaches are sandy and the island is bigger. There is also an incredible Cathedral there, the beauty of which was an unexpected surprise. A big recommend if you’re in Malawi.
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