Visiting the Goat Father

Stellenbosch
January 4th, 2009

The family inched closer to Cape Town and enjoyed a couple of nights in Stellenbosch. We started off our tour by going to Moyo, a brilliant African entertainment experience. The set up of the restaurant is amazing with different eating areas. We were in the more touristy location, sitting at a table under the main tent with perfect views of the stages. The other areas included tables at tree houses, tables around a garden, and couches around a bar. Each different area would provide a completely different experience. The food we ate was really nice, a massive a buffet African style spread with virtually anything you could think of. Entertainment was provided by dancers, traditional and modern, and bands, the best of which is courtesy of the Congo with an amazing female singer.

We decided to do what all people do there – foreign and local- and go wine tasting. Heading in the car, we hit the Fairview wine and cheese farm. As you drive into the parking lot, you see a small fenced in tower with three goats roaming around. This scene is pictured as a logo on some of their wine collection. Moving inside the building we had two choices for wine tasting; a general wine tasting tour or a master wine tasting tour. Andrew, my brother, connoisseur that he is, suggested the master tour and it turned out to be potentially the best decision of his life (well, just under his choice of wife who is unbelievably fantastic). We were escorted to a glassed room at the back of the wine tasting area that was finished in beautiful woods and stones, and introduced to our very own wine master. At the table in front of us were rectangular white plates with eight little squares of cheese, a basket with bread and three different olive oils. Presented with menus we learned that we would taste eight different wines chosen to correspond perfectly with the cheeses. The tasting began and it was incredible. The combinations were heavenly. After a very happy tasting session, we loaded the car up with just under a dozen bottles of Fairview’s finest along with a sizable collection of cheese.

Feeling snackish after our tour we decided to go for food. We headed towards Boschendal for a picnic. And not just any picnic, a Renoir style picnic complete with fresh linens, delicious wines, newly baked baguettes, salads, quiches, pates and brownies. Karel and I knew how fabulous the picnic was as dear friends of ours, Alinda and Emile, had taken us previously on our first visit to the Cape Town area. Once utterly satisfied we headed to Franschoek to pick up a few essentials, you know, some woven baskets, a few carved hippos, and elephant or two, essentials.

The Most Wonderful Time of the Year

Christmas 2008

We were extremely spoilt for Christmas this year. My parents, John and Shirley, and my brother, Andrew, and his wife, Shannon joined us for a brown Christmas (the opposite of white- warm weather and beaches). We picked everyone up from the airport in Cape Town and headed to join our extended family in Groot Brak, in between Mossel Bay and George. There Karel’s cousin Elize and her husband, Andre organized up to 27 of us at times. Company included Andre and Elize and their beautiful children Wichard (24), Izelle (22) and Sune (21) with their partners and guests Marijke, Devon and Fredrik, Karel’s cousin Karel and his wife Karen and their lovely children Stephen (15) and Gerhard (9), Andre’s sister Ina and her husband DeVille with two of their fantastic children Alida (26) and Denel (24), and Karel’s cousin Nico with his family Hannelie, Leani and Hanku. We were also joined for a couple of days by Karel’s cousins Micheal and Gerrie. We stayed in three houses, only a couple kms apart for about two and a half weeks. We had amazing meals, all traditionally South African, including Cape Malay dishes, potjies, a spit roast and of course braais.

Besides eating and sleeping like Kings, we did some amazing activities. We went on a game drive at the Garden Route Game Lodge with an amazing guide who knew loads of interesting information and facts about the animals. Amongst other things we saw elephants, lions, rhino, buffalo and learned about the vegetation and soil (remember we did have a farmer who asks loads of questions on our tour  ). We feed elephants at Botelierskop which was fantastic. Elephants have such thick, coarse skin and such dark thick hair, with the longest eyelashes I’ve seen (even longer than a giraffe’s) and seeing them use their trunks so close up was fascinating. Karel and Andrew went bungee jumping at Gouritz , a more than 60m drop (check the video out on K’s facebook). We went to the stunning Cango Caves near Outshoorn (definite recommend) and divided into two groups to go to either an ostrich farm or an adventure park with cheetahs. Both received rave reviews. We attended the largest church service I have ever been to, which was outdoors, in Afrikaans and really special. Spending New Years together was so much fun. We all went to the Fete du Mossel, a beach party with a twist. There were ten seafood courses, freshly prepared on the fire, an unending supply of bread and pumping Afrikaans tunes with a very memorable lion number. And amongst all these activities we also found time to lie on the beach feeling the heat of the African sun and also to shop (Canadians heart Cape Union Mart).

Thanks to everyone for making our Christmas so special. We’ll treasure it always.

Looking for something officer?

Maputo, Mozambique
December 13th, 2008

Heading back to South Africa in time for Christmas and the family and fun that lay ahead of us, we went south to Maputo. Hearing mixed reviews and gathering the general opinion that you either love it or hate it, I was extremely curious. Entering the city you could sense it was buzzing. Busy road side shops lined the streets. Informal shops you could say where a cloth or wooden sign stating the services offered was displayed and related materials and goods surrounded the area. These shops included hubcap and muffler sales, haircuts, snack stands, phone services, shoe repairs, second hand clothing and bars.

After reading our guide book we decided to find the train station, a station designed by Eiffel (of Tower fame). It was fairly easy to find and is definitely worth a peek. Apparently the former Prime Minister also commissioned his house to be designed by Eiffel as well (corruption perchance?). We went to the Saturday craft market as well. Admiring the many handicrafts and superior wood work and craftsmanship we left empty handed. (We are starting, well make that I am starting, to be much more practical as we travel, and need more motivation than beauty to buy something, there needs to be a purpose for it.)

We also went to a drive along the coastline of the city looking for a specific restaurant/bar, the one filmed in Blood Diamond. As we drove a police officer pulled us over. We did as instructed and handed over our many documents including passports, driver’s licence and third party insurance papers. It was the insurance paper that had the policeman most interested. We weren’t worried as we paid and did as we should have. Taking our papers, he did a pointed look around the car with a few exaggerated expressions, most likely to instil a sense of fear. Returning to our car he pointed out that we didn’t complete a box indicating how long we were planning to stay in Mozambique on our insurance form. The customs officer who stamped and signed the form for us wasn’t concerned, especially as the insurance document expires 30 days from when stamped. Without much we could do, we just pointed out that a) the customs official who signed it was happy with the form and b) we could fill out the box now if he wished. Not satisfied with either response he continued to say over and over and over again that we didn’t fill in the box. Yes, we said, we do realize that, but a) and b). He decided to call over his superior, who once had heard about the situation in our presence merely looked at the officer who brought him over and walked away. This led to our ‘release’ and off we went.

We weren’t victorious on finding the film location; however we did find a brilliant place where we ate the most delicious prego rolls ever. I mean ever. As I type I am still staring off into the distance thinking about it (somewhat like Homer – the Simpson, not philosopher- mmm, prego roll).

Vilankulos

Mozambique
December 10th, 2008

The road we travelled was unbelievable. The scenery was stunning with forests of palm trees, cute villages with neat yards, stalls alongside the road with neat stacks of firewood, papaya trees sprinkled alongside the road, and heavily loaded vehicles with people and goods stacked miles high. It was amazing. What wasn’t as amazing was the potholes. I’m not just talking about one or two potholes, but a road stretching about 100km filled with them. There were no lanes; you just drove wherever you could to avoid them, which often meant that we drove with one tire on the road and the other in the ditch, and occasionally driving totally in the ditch. It was madness, but quite an experience.

We reached our destination, Vilankulos, sometime later. Finding a place appropriately called Babab Backpackers we set our camp up suitingly underneath one. We arrived and thoroughly enjoyed some cold drinks served by an Irish bartender full of charm. Talking amongst some fellow travellers we decided to go exploring on a nearby island the next day. There are several islands close by, all World Wildlife Fund protected. To reach these islands you need to take a Dhow, a small boat with a tiny motor and a sail. It’s an expensive journey costing about $80 US per person and a long one. It took us about three hours to reach the island in the morning and about two and a half to return (with winds) in the evening. The distance isn’t far, only a few kms but the technology is well, charming shall we say.

Words can not really describe how amazing the experience was. We arrived during low tide, kicked off our sandals and walked 25 metres to shore. In the pockets of water left by the tide there were little fishes and gorgeous shells, all sorts including stunningly beautiful sand dollars. The beach was perfect with fine white sand and lush vegetation growing from the sand. It was like being on a private beach as there were only five of us. The water was warm, most likely at least 25 degrees.

Once we reached the shore we grabbed some kit and snorkelled. When we finished we relaxed on the beach and had lunch. Lunch was included with the trip and one of the loosely termed ‘sailors’ prepared the food for us. We had fresh calamari cooked with tomatoes and onions in a stew of sorts, salad, fresh bread, fire cooked line fish, and fresh mango for dessert. Food never tasted so good. After lunch we went for a walk and saw loads of crabs hunting for their lunch, and later for a swim. In a word it was amazing.

Quick…Sand!

Praia do Tofo, Mozambique
December 7th, 2008

Checking into a campsite in the backyard of Fatima’s backpackers, we were guided by a member of staff as to where was best to camp. They unlocked the gate for us and in we went, directed towards the shade of a tree. Part way there we got stuck. And not just stuck, completely stuck. The sand was impossibly thick and we were without any warning. Hot as it was, we took the tire compressor out and deflated the tires once, twice and three times. Each time the sand burnt us as we cleared it from the tires. Eventually 0.8 bar later we were free, free to continue for about 4m to our destination. We weren’t the only ones to get stuck. University holidays had just begun and a couple groups of male students were arriving for a bit of a celebration. I tried warning them about the sand, explaining that we got stuck and had to deflate our tires, but seeing as I am just a girl, I was politely thanked then ignored. I did however enjoy watching them struggle as they attempted (and failed) at pushing themselves out.

Once set up we hit the water, the Indian ocean with a temperature of about 27 degrees. Heavenly. The sands were white and the beach stretches miles. The whole area has a bit of a backpacker/hippie vibe with brightly patterned cloth bags and pants for sale, beers and coke sold from coolers on the street, prawns sold by the kg, and children of about 12 selling bread, buns and friendship bracelets. The weather was beautiful, sunny and hot and we completely relaxed, swimming, reading, and sleeping for a few days. Bliss.

Richard the Baker

Xia-Xia
December 6th, 2008

Our next stop was Xia-Xia (pronounced Shy Shy), a decent sized town near the coast conveniently located midway between the National Park camp and our recommended destination of Tofo. We found a decent campground, set up, and went for a swim by some rock pools. The next day as we were leaving we saw a man riding a bicycle cart selling bread. We pulled over and looked for some change. Karel told the baker that he had read about him, a baker who goes round the campgrounds and sells fresh bread. Introductions were made and we found out the baker’s name was Richard. Richard was dead excited that we had read about him and that he was as Karel termed it ‘famous’. Karel then asked Richard if he could take his photo. The baker was so excited. Yes of course we could take his photo. But not just a random casual photo, oh no, we were treated to a range of posed and narrated photos. “Here is me on my bike selling my bread. The bread is in here (pointing towards the cart). Here is me with the bread under my arm. Bread for sale. Bread for sale. Here is me opening my cart. How much bread, how much bread...” It was fantastic- the photos and the bread. So please if you are ever near Xia-Xia ask for Richard he’s famous!

Aquia Pesquiero

Parque Nacional do Limpopo
Mozambique
December 5th, 2008

Crossing from the Kruger National Park into the Limpopo National Park in Mozambique highlighted the vast difference between the richness of South Africa and the continuing development of its neighbours. Roads were made of rough gravel with huge speed bumps. Only 4x4’s need apply. Wildlife was sparse with our only sighting being a snake crossing the road.

Once we arrived at the camp, its beauty surprised us. The reception was stunningly decorated with arranged rocks and plants creating sidewalks and welcoming signs. The campground itself was situated above the Massingir Dam providing breath taking views. Out of season, or perhaps in season, we were the only campers present.

Camp was set up and I busied myself cleaning up and getting dinner ready. The abolitions were basic and tidy. I went a couple of times to a kitchen sink area to wash my hands and get water to boil. Karel later also went to the sinks area. When he came back he asked “Did you see the snake?” Alarmed I asked “what snake?” “The snake wrapped around the tap.” “What do you mean?” “Go take a look.” I did as suggested and my eyes nearly popped out of place as I noticed a small greyish snake coiled around the base of the very tap I turned twice. My hands were centimetres if that away from the snake when I used the tap. Thankfully the snake didn’t seem to mind. For the rest of our stay I watched very carefully for snakes and made sure I tread heavily on the ground to give snakes a warning I was coming.